Green Chile Beef Stew
Green chile, New Mexico’s state vegetable, is creeping into the wider public consciousness day by day, appearing in restaurants, on East Coast-based cooking websites, and in frozen items at major national tiki-themed grocery stores. Green chile is the underripe fruit of the New Mexico group cultivar of capsicum annum, and when ripened, it simply becomes red chile. But while New Mexico red chile is typically dried before eating, green is roasted on a grill, often in grocery store parking lots, releasing a toasty, vegetal aroma that has a Proustian effect on anyone who spent a late summer in New Mexico. When you get it home, wash off the blackened, tough skin and remove the seeds and membranes (wearing gloves!) and then dry on racks before using or freezing. I try to keep many of the chiles intact so I can stuff them and make rellenos, but inevitably many of them get torn up in the process and those are perfect for chopping up in a stew.
Traditionally, New Mexican green chile stew is made with pork, or sometimes chicken. This recipe is a combination of green chile stew and a quintessential English-style beef stew. Measurements are very rough estimates, to encourage you to cook with abandon, which is how the best stews come together.
INGREDIENTS
serves 4
1.5 lbs stew beef
1 onion, diced
2-3 carrots, diced
4 ribs celery, diced
3 or more cloves garlic, minced
1 tbsp tomato paste
A healthy splash of wine (I used the last of a rosé this time)
Several russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
Several more carrots, cut into 1-inch chunks
4 cups broth (beef or vegetable)
Olive oil
A handful of flour
Salt and pepper
AND TO FINISH, a couple of sprigs of fresh oregano, a tbsp or so of dried thyme, a sprinkle of cayenne (my green chile wasn’t hot enough for me), and a dash of white sugar.
Serve with crusty bread.
FACTOIDS:
Green chile is grown in southern New Mexico, mostly in Hatch. They also grow it in Colorado, but, you know, not really.
In New Mexico, you can get green chile cheeseburgers at McDonalds.
1/2 cup of green chile supposedly has twice the vitamin C of an orange, so useful for both cold season and long sea voyages.
DIRECTIONS
Toss your stew beef with about 1-2 tbsp salt (more than you think!) several vigorous turns of a black pepper grinder, and a handful of flour. Coat with the flour and, if you have time, allow to sit on the counter for about an hour to let the salt infuse into the meat.
Preheat your oven to 375°F/190°C.
In a large Dutch oven, heat a glug of olive oil until it shimmers and then brown your beef in batches. Do not crowd the pan, or you will not get adequate browning. Brown on all sides, pretty deeply if you can. I realize this process is tiresome and the meat spits oil like crazy, but that coating of caramelized meat fond on the bottom of your pot is the soul of your stew, so do not skip this step.
Remove the meat and drain on paper towels.
Add the onion, carrots, and celery to the pot and sauté until everything begins to soften and turn gold. Add the tomato paste and stir to combine, and cook another few minutes. Don’t let it scorch on the bottom of the pot, but do let it build up a nice crust.
Deglaze! Throw that healthy glug of wine into your pot and then scrape all that hard-won fond off the bottom and stir it into your vegetables. Cook off the wine for a few minutes.
Add the meat, broth, and four cups of water to the pot, and stir. Bring to a boil, and then reduce immediately to a simmer.
Place the covered dutch oven in the actual oven, and cook for an hour.
After an hour, add the potatoes, carrots, oregano, thyme, and cayenne to the pot, and put it back in the oven for another hour, or until the potatoes are cooked through, which may take a tad longer.
Balance your flavors with liberal salt and a dash of sugar, until you hit the Platonic ideal of savoriness. Add a little more fresh oregano if you like.
